The Met Office had advised not to go out but I thought they'd just got it wrong today... It was warm, with a bit of very normal rain. I got home and decided to throw caution literally to the wind and head East to Tynemouth, it could have been a mass of awful white froth or as I expected it was a vision of clean but windy as hell (think of getting pressure washed in the chops at close range).
As per usual I parked up and almost handbraked the car into the parking bay with childish excitement, rapidly slid into my wetsuit like that bit on Wallace & Gromit, applied a li'l extra sexy wax to the board and walked/legged it to the midsection of the beach, and boy it was good!
Now usually i'd be a bit apprehensive, I have two kids and I have to try to keep the recklessness in check but I approach the beach and it was well busy from end to end. I got in, got on and caught some crackers, some of those walls of water were super daunting for a newb! I got out, walked 100 metres down the beach and decided to get back in, used my remaining energy, then got out walked 100 metres up the beach and got back in again, each time it was sweet!
So let's look at comfort zones, If I hadn't stepped out of the C.Z. today and wallowed under the grey clouds, I wouldn't have experienced some lush waves under some moody skies and a full rainbow arch. I'd have sat at home being distant, wishing I was surfing being all moody and no fun whatsoever, I also wouldn't have experienced the immense happiness as I stood besides the van looking back at the sea watching a red moon rise over the North Sea.
One of the comfort zones I overcome was making myself a target to surf through winter (all the way through and... enjoy it!) not only do I enjoy it, I actually love every single minute of it... The cold, the pushing through angry waves, the falls, the fear and the occasional epic progression points like a sweet pop-up or that feeling when it just clicks!
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